Skip Amsterdam - Instead Visit This City the Next Time You Travel to the Netherlands
A seriously underrated alternative with friendly locals, rich history, and seaside charm
When people ask me where they should go in the Netherlands, the answer they usually expect is “Amsterdam”. While I did earn my university degree here, it’s actually not my recommendation and suggest something different. Sure, spend your obligatory day in the Dutch capital if you must, but then move on to something a little more interesting. Especially now, as more European cities are pushing back against over-tourism, it’s time to look beyond the obvious itineraries and get a little more creative with our travel choices.
So, here’s my suggestion, a city that holds a special place in my heart: The Hague.
A city by the sea, not just a seat of government
While Amsterdam may be the capital, most government buildings are located in the Hague. So you may have heard of The Hague already in relation to politics, international embassies, or the International Court of Justice. It’s also a vibrant coastal city with miles of sandy beaches, a historic city centre, and more charm and personality than it gets credit for. Case in point: During my last trip home for the Amsterdam Marathon, I stayed in The Hague for most of my stay and only moved to Amsterdam for one night before the marathon.
The Hague, or Den Haag as we call it in Dutch, offers a bridge between extremes: old-world history, and modern-day convenience. Unlike the tourist-packed canals of Amsterdam, The Hague gives you space to breathe, walk, and truly experience what’s around you — whether that’s an art museum, a stroll by the North Sea, or just a really good plate of bitterballen.1
Beaches, boutiques, and bitterballen
Tired of roaming around the city centre? For a complete change of scenery, the beach is only a short tram ride away. There are several options to pick from. several. Scheveningen2 is the best-known, but my personal favourite is Kijkduin. It’s a little quieter, more relaxed, and perfect for a long run or a sunset walk. When the weather is nice (or not) you can stop at one of the beach clubs for a (hot) drink. No matter the weather, there’s something magical about being able to dip your toes in the ocean just minutes away from a vibrant city centre.3
Back in town, you’ll find a surprisingly eclectic shopping scene if walk just a little bit beyond the main shopping street. The Zeeheldenkwartier neighbourhood is a treasure trove of indie boutiques, vintage finds, and outdoor markets. It’s the kind of area where you can still stumble across something unexpected (and not because it was planted there for tourists).
And then there’s the food. Most Dutch people living abroad long enough will mention a food item when asked what they miss the most. Only after the food they may mention friends and family. At least, try the traditional Dutch snacks like stroopwafels, bitterballen and herring4, but The Hague also has a diverse and genuinely global food scene. Indonesian food in particular is excellent here, thanks to the country’s colonial history. My advice? Forget about your diet for a while, try some new things, and (most importantly) come hungry.
Art, history, and a quieter kind of magic
One of the things I appreciate most about The Hague is how it bridges history and culture without feeling stuffy. The Mauritshuis — home to Vermeer’s Girl with a Pearl Earring — is a must, but so is the Escher Museum, especially if you enjoy a little optical illusion with your art. My favourite? A short walk from the city you’ll find Panorama Mesdag. I won’t ruin the surprise, don’t miss it.
Madurodam offers a miniature version of the entire Netherlands — tiny buildings, trains, planes, and all. It sounds kitschy, but it’s actually a charming and cleverly designed way to get a sense of the whole country in a few hours. Afterwards, you can hop back on the tram to continue to Scheveningen for dinner or drinks at the beach.
It’s not just a place — it’s a feeling
Being back in The Hague for the marathon after so long away — especially post-COVID — reminded me why I used to call it home. There’s a certain ease to life here. A calm. The city feels grounded. Whether I was reconnecting with family over coffee or running along the coast with nothing but waves and wind for company, I felt something I hadn’t in a while: a sense of presence.
“People don’t take trips — trips take people.” ~ John Steinbeck
This trip home took me right back to the kind of simple joy that made me fall in love with travel in the first place. Hopefully you’ll use some of these tips to your advantage.
Get Into Action
If my story inspires you to see more than the usual hotspots and explore the places that don’t always make the guidebooks, my book The Freedom Project: Travel is your next read. It’s a book about turning your “some day” travel dreams into real-life adventures — whether it’s returning to your roots or discovering a new place that feels like home.
If you want to take it to the next level, check out my Travel Revolution course with more tips on how I stay off the beaten path, and get more travel experiences for less money than what most people pay. Preview the course today (for free) and start planning your next meaningful escape.
Further reading
Bitterballen are a classic Dutch snack consisting of deep-fried, breaded meatballs. They are typically filled with a savoury mixture of beef or veal, onions, spices, and a thick roux-based gravy.
Bonus points for pronouncing that one correctly: The name "Scheveningen" is pronounced /ˈsxeːvənɪŋən/ in Dutch, with a strong guttural "g" sound. The "sch" is pronounced like the "sk" in "sky" or the "ch" in the Scottish "loch". The final "n" is often dropped or barely pronounced, with a slight "uh" sound before it.
This is likely why I enjoy Vancouver, Canada as much - the contrast between the busyness of the city and having beaches and nature close by.
Herring is only recommended if you’re feeling brave - pickled raw fish isn’t everyone’s cup of tea. I don’t like it. If you want something fishy that’s easier to appreciate, ask for “kibbelingen” with garlic sauce.